African sunrise...istant cue for: NAAAAAAAAAA |
Day 1
My car
nearly died. Seriously. Poor little Getz was forced into finding her inner 4x4
spirit while conquering corrugated (valleyed) roads layered with evil rocks
with an interior full of people and luggage. It was rather stressful. (Note to
self: make sure you’re on the insurance for dad’s big car before next grand adventure).
Anyway, five hours after leaving Durban (I drive slowly to save petrol ok?) we
get to Mkhuze for the game census. Rest of the day was spent finding out what
will be plotting over the next two weeks, claiming beds and meeting fellow
minions.
Happiness is mud |
Day 2
8km
transect of up-down rocky terrain to start. Found out I was a lot fitter than I
thought I was and it made me want to start hiking more often. Mountains, I want
to see mountains again Gandalf
[/geekism]. Not much game save for nyala, a red duiker and a grey one and a
buffalo. Though apparently elephants climb mountains as seen from the giant poo
piles and pushed over trees. I would’ve loved to have seen that.
Talk around
camp fire was highlighted by the naming of the semi-tameish genet. First named
Brakkies by the Afrikaaner, but then countered with the more dignified
suggestions of Cecil and Francois by the Englishman. Much laughter ensued.
Brakkies...or Cecil....or Francois |
Day 3
Turns out I
sleep like the dead. Bushbabies Galagos,
hyenas and wildebeest all failed to rouse me.
Boredom
nearly killed us on the transects in the link property. It was longish, flat
and all we saw were pelicans and a whole
lot of cows…and a dead reedbuck. Loverly.
Waiting for
the lift after we finished made up for it because it was hilarious. So, we ended
up at this huge tree with a shack next to it.
So we sit
down and we see this guy walking in the reserve link property thing with these
two knobkerrie-type things which aren’t allowed in the park. After he sees the
ranger he promptly saunters to the nearest bush and throws them in, in full
view of everyone, because he was so inconspicuous like that. Then he continues
walking while doing these random air punch-combined-with-dance-steps moves. Our
ranger tries to call him over but gets ignored like five times. Eventually this
guy (obviously drunk or high or both) comes over and our ranger starts
interrogating him in English, then switches to Zulu, then back to English –
with no comprehension dawning in this guy’s mind. This goes on for a long time,
with my friend and I trying our utmost not to can ourselves laughing. Anyway,
the guy eventually gets the point that these knobkerries are not allowed in the
park and runs off skipping after our ranger tells him to go find his
leader/chief/nduna.
The funny
didn’t end there however. Our ranger thereafter decided to trundle off with
some new lady friends. My friend and I are left sitting on this tree with these
two randoms and a (very unhappy) cow. We tried to cease to exist while the two
of them try to figure out how to get the cow across the cattle grid (bearing in
mind that there are several long sheets of corrugated iron lying on the floor).
After like 20 minutes they worked out that using one of these sheets would be a
good way to solve their problem if they put it over the grid.
Once this
eureka moment was put in place, they started herding the cow towards the gate.
At one point the cow was literally yanked off its feet as they intelligently
tied the rope around its leg. We thought it was dead as it didn’t move despite
several attempts by these guys to get it on its feet…until it got a kick in the
head (not a hard one). It got up after that and the rest of the crossing went
smoothly.
Then, when
we eventually got picked up and were driving back to camp we came across these
two again. Our ranger got out and started questioning them as you’re not
allowed to bring cattle into the park without first consulting the head office.
The punishment ended up being 20 push-ups, which made the guy very unhappy
while entertaining the rest of us.
Just LOL |
Day 4
Walking
felt like forever today! Was about 7.5kms per transect plus quite a bit of
walking between but at least we saw stuff! YAY! Granted it was the standard
impala, nyala, wildebeest and zebra story but among those were a few warthogs,
red duiker and suni.
Our ranger doing some pondering |
Day 5
PAYDAY!
Well, not for us since we’re getting paid with food, but all the rangers got
paid and went home so no walking for us. We decided to kill my car some more
do a game drive. Didn’t see much
until we got to the Nsumo Pan where we saw hippo and were very entertained by
an egret landing on the popping up hippo heads and sinking with the hippo when
they decided to submerge again. Drive back to camp was more successful but no
super cool stuff.
Funny egret on a hippo |
Day 6
Best
transects! Both were long (around 8kms) but flat so it was easy enough. Actual
transects didn’t provide the best-transects award but we had lunch at the
Masinga hide which was amazing. It
was like the whole Serengeti piled in around one watering hole. So many animals
and so many photos were taken. It made me a happy person.
Zebra reflection |
Day 7
Hell
transects were hellish. Not only were the transects long themselves (~9kms
each) but you had to walk so far to get to and from them and the car as well as
between them. Easily a +25km day. Meh. I did feel rather accomplished after
conquering the physical and mental drain. Only redeeming points were the
stunning views at the beginning of the second transect, you could see for
seemingly endless miles of bush. It was close to mind-numbing but alas, it was
a sense that was dulled by the walk ahead.
Also saw a
hyena which was the only predator I saw in the whole two weeks. Sad Natta is
sad at this fact.
I will nap....here |
Day 8
Rest day
comprising of a shopping trip to the bustling metropolis of Mkhuze and meeting
the new peoples.
Impressive tusks are impressive |
Day 9
Really
dull. Saw ‘nothing’. 8.2km and 2 sightings….greaaaaat.
Look how little it is AWWW |
Day 10
Hide
transects again yay! Hide was open to visitors again (it was being renovated
last time) so had to deal with other peoples including annoying toddler who
would. Not. Shut. Up. Gosh, at a hide you should be silent and if your kids
don’t know the meaning of the word shush then don’t bring them along. Really,
consideration for others, people. It’s not that hard.
Not as many
animals but I did end up having a discussion about conservation and park
management (in hushed tones when all the animals left) with this random guy
which was very interesting. He also saw cheetahs…twice…not fair.
Like a boss |
Day 11
Quick day
today, finished the 20 odd kms by 12:30. Nice walks too despite the rockiness.
Saw 6 rhinos (only white unfortunately). I even managed to spot a mommy and
baby that the ranger walked straight past. Kudos to me! There was also a
carcass of a rhino killed by poachers (via a snare) which I smelt like a kilometre
away and it made me both depressed and really angry.
That's what the giraffe thought of me taking photos |
Day 12
Short
transects! Seriously first one was 700m through this stunning fig forest. Big,
mind-numbingly wow trees. Sadly half the transect was infested with chromelina
and there were no elephants. Other transect was 4km but felt like 20 because
the ranger walked so slowly.
Big tree is big |
Day 13
Another
easy day, more painfully slow walking but we managed to speed up on the second
transect. Again, nothing super special in the way of sightings.
More cuteness |
Day 14
Uuuugh….so
much driving to Makhasa and then sooo much walking in sand at a speedy gonzalez
pace. Legs were rather unhappy at the end of it. And we saw nothing of great
interest…
Wallowing party |
Day 15
Leaving
day. Yeah, despite the whining above I really loved the two weeks. Got good
experience, learnt a lot, found new friends and opened up some new
opportunities for the future. Also, the bush just has that ability to make me
happy. I miss it already.
On an
exciting note: my friend can organise for me to go out and see wild dogs!!!!!
YAY for having
connections.
And I am
out…until next time.